I have the afternoon to myself, the first real stretch of time since arriving in Beijing. The guidebook I’ve been flipping through mentions the hutong - ancient alleyways, said to be the very soul of the old city
Thanks so much for your kind words! Journals, ticket stubs, email archives (I was an early adopter of Gmail so all my emails to parents are archived and searchable), and other documents provide a clear timeline of events, but the reflective aspects come from memory and the passage of time. My time in China was incredibly formative, and certain experiences remain vivid in my mind.
I really loved visiting Beijing. I was there last year. And spent lots of time in those little back streets. I also loved how green the city was - I had heard so much about pollution in China - that surprised me.
I think they're done a lot to clean up the air in recent years. The pollution wasn't so bad during my time in Beijing but it could get particularly bad at certain times. Great to hear you enjoyed your time there, and thanks for reading!
We stayed in a small hotel in a Beijing hutong in February 2012. The 3 or 4 rooms gave onto a courtyard behind a washed-off red wall and a lacquered red double door with brass door knockers. It was freezing -10°C at night. No one spoke English. There were no tourists. It was amazing.
What a special moment and memory Nico! -With a slow, deliberate motion, he gestures to the space beside him, offering me the silent invitation to sit. -I bet you'll remember this forever. Cheers to more encounters.
Maybe I was in Beijing same time as you. I remember passing enormous construction projects on the way from the airport, in a 2-hour taxi ride. But your tea moment encounter reminds me of a dialog I leed when I entered an old monastery in Greece’s Athos and a monk quietly greeted me. Amazed by medieval byzantine reality surrounding me, I said up-front: “I have so many questions!” To which the monk responded gently, with a tiny smile: “maybe later”. I staid overnight in the monastery, but these were the only words said to me.
You saw a Beijing that was no more after the Olympics. This December, we had planned to see the little hutong museum, but just missed the closing time. 🙏
The Chinese paradox—a nation eager to celebrate its 5,000-year history, yet often indifferent to the preservation of its everyday architecture and traditions.
There’s been a renaissance bubbling recently, so we can say people are returning to history and art. Many of the places I go to recently, I find that just a decade ago, they didn’t exist or were recently renovated. Fun and interest in history and art is returning strongly. 🙏
Such rich writing, glad I found this. How much of these stories are taken from your journal vs memory?
Thanks so much for your kind words! Journals, ticket stubs, email archives (I was an early adopter of Gmail so all my emails to parents are archived and searchable), and other documents provide a clear timeline of events, but the reflective aspects come from memory and the passage of time. My time in China was incredibly formative, and certain experiences remain vivid in my mind.
Enjoyed reading this account about old Beijing!
Thanks so much Moushumi 😊🙏
I really loved visiting Beijing. I was there last year. And spent lots of time in those little back streets. I also loved how green the city was - I had heard so much about pollution in China - that surprised me.
I think they're done a lot to clean up the air in recent years. The pollution wasn't so bad during my time in Beijing but it could get particularly bad at certain times. Great to hear you enjoyed your time there, and thanks for reading!
We stayed in a small hotel in a Beijing hutong in February 2012. The 3 or 4 rooms gave onto a courtyard behind a washed-off red wall and a lacquered red double door with brass door knockers. It was freezing -10°C at night. No one spoke English. There were no tourists. It was amazing.
Sounds like an incredible experience—I love how places like that can feel so untouched by tourism, even in a city as vast as Beijing.
What a special moment and memory Nico! -With a slow, deliberate motion, he gestures to the space beside him, offering me the silent invitation to sit. -I bet you'll remember this forever. Cheers to more encounters.
Thanks Debbie - indeed i remember it like it was yesterday.
Maybe I was in Beijing same time as you. I remember passing enormous construction projects on the way from the airport, in a 2-hour taxi ride. But your tea moment encounter reminds me of a dialog I leed when I entered an old monastery in Greece’s Athos and a monk quietly greeted me. Amazed by medieval byzantine reality surrounding me, I said up-front: “I have so many questions!” To which the monk responded gently, with a tiny smile: “maybe later”. I staid overnight in the monastery, but these were the only words said to me.
I love his answer! It could be so profound - suggesting that knowledge and wisdom takes time. But he could just be forgetful. 😂
You saw a Beijing that was no more after the Olympics. This December, we had planned to see the little hutong museum, but just missed the closing time. 🙏
The Chinese paradox—a nation eager to celebrate its 5,000-year history, yet often indifferent to the preservation of its everyday architecture and traditions.
There’s been a renaissance bubbling recently, so we can say people are returning to history and art. Many of the places I go to recently, I find that just a decade ago, they didn’t exist or were recently renovated. Fun and interest in history and art is returning strongly. 🙏
loved this one Nico. It really took me back to my first days when I arrived for the very first time in Beijing. Very atmospheric. Lovely piece.
Thank you—I'm glad it resonated with you! This is my favourite chapter of the ones I've written so far.