I had no classes that day. The campus was quiet, and the hum of student activity felt far away. I was in no rush, and so, with no particular purpose in mind, I decided to explore the neighbourhoods around me.
Nico, reminds of seeing the "American War Crimes Museum" in HoChiMinh". Our soldier almost certainly didn't know why he was there, as he adversary didn't either, and none of them knew how the events would be presented today. The best book I've read on the history is "The Opium War" by Julia Lovell. https://a.co/d/5tu8Yoq
Thanks, Paul. I've been meaning to read more on the subject, so will definitely take a look at that book - it'll be useful for some future chapters I have in mind about my visits to Hong Kong.
I hadn’t heard of the Vietnamese museum, but I can imagine the tone it sets. It’s a powerful comparison: the dissonance between lived experience and how history later frames it. There are no winners in war, only survivors, and too often it’s the common soldier who bears the cost of decisions made far above his head.
Another great book, essential reading, is Iris Chang's "The Rape of Nanjing". About the invasion of southern China and the massacre at Nanjing. Grim, but excellent, including a description of why some countries have a military mentality.
Thanks for the recommendation, Debbie - I’ve heard so much about The Rape of Nanjing, but I’ll admit that the details of that period are almost too horrific for me to take in at length. That said, I’d recommend Nanjing: The Burning City by Ethan Young if you’re ever interested in a graphic novel approach to the subject. A different lens, but still deeply affecting.
Thanks Nico. I havent heard of that one, I'll check it out. Yes it's harrowing, but she goes into historic details as to why a society could have produced the kind of attitude the invading soldiers had, and I think that's helpful. It's also very sad as Iris Chang, the author, died some years after writing that book.
Exactly, it's so important to understand how those atrocities could happen, especially when you consider how Japanese society is viewed today: advanced, polite, modern.
It’s chilling to think that even the most seemingly peaceful and sophisticated societies are capable of unspeakable acts when certain conditions are met.
the woman there likely thought little of your nationality - the weight on your shoulders clearly was not on hers. i’ve been in those situations myself. i’ve been through the guilt and released myself from it. you learn a hell of a lot, including the fact that such guilt isn’t just a white, western thing.
This post encapsulates the inherent kindness and forgiveness of Chinese people. "You're a friend - okay then, the past doesn't matter.". It reminds me of a conversation I had with a taxidriver in Tianjin. At the time, there was a lot of foreign investment coming into the town. Tianjin was a city that suffered terribly during the Eight Allied Powers invasion of China. I'd also recently seen the horrors of the Memorial Hall to the Victims of the Nanjing Massacre, so this atrocity was front and centre in my recall. I asked the taxi driver how he felt about all the business investment and all of these nations who had caused so much destruction, terrror and murder in Tianjin during that time coming back to Tianjin. He smiled and replied simply "It they come in peace that's fine, we people of Tianjin welcome them.".
The taxi driver had the same response as your temple woman - you're a friend - great, welcome!
It's kind of relevant to the current state of the world. China is simply saying - you want to be friends, you want to do business with us, Welcome! but if you want to engage in wars, trade or military, we will fight back. We'd rather be friends, but your choice.
That resonates with many of my encounters in China, there’s a deep-seated graciousness, a capacity to separate the individual from the historical.
I find it deeply humbling. In an age where history is so often weaponised, there’s something quietly radical about the simple act of saying: “You come in peace? Then welcome.”
It reminds me that the truest way to build bridges across nations and ideologies is to actually meet — to talk, to sit together, to share a meal or a story. We live in increasingly polarised and suspicious times, but there’s still light in human connection.
Nico, reminds of seeing the "American War Crimes Museum" in HoChiMinh". Our soldier almost certainly didn't know why he was there, as he adversary didn't either, and none of them knew how the events would be presented today. The best book I've read on the history is "The Opium War" by Julia Lovell. https://a.co/d/5tu8Yoq
Thanks, Paul. I've been meaning to read more on the subject, so will definitely take a look at that book - it'll be useful for some future chapters I have in mind about my visits to Hong Kong.
I hadn’t heard of the Vietnamese museum, but I can imagine the tone it sets. It’s a powerful comparison: the dissonance between lived experience and how history later frames it. There are no winners in war, only survivors, and too often it’s the common soldier who bears the cost of decisions made far above his head.
Another great book, essential reading, is Iris Chang's "The Rape of Nanjing". About the invasion of southern China and the massacre at Nanjing. Grim, but excellent, including a description of why some countries have a military mentality.
Thanks for the recommendation, Debbie - I’ve heard so much about The Rape of Nanjing, but I’ll admit that the details of that period are almost too horrific for me to take in at length. That said, I’d recommend Nanjing: The Burning City by Ethan Young if you’re ever interested in a graphic novel approach to the subject. A different lens, but still deeply affecting.
Thanks Nico. I havent heard of that one, I'll check it out. Yes it's harrowing, but she goes into historic details as to why a society could have produced the kind of attitude the invading soldiers had, and I think that's helpful. It's also very sad as Iris Chang, the author, died some years after writing that book.
Exactly, it's so important to understand how those atrocities could happen, especially when you consider how Japanese society is viewed today: advanced, polite, modern.
It’s chilling to think that even the most seemingly peaceful and sophisticated societies are capable of unspeakable acts when certain conditions are met.
That HCM museum has been renamed, not long after my visit. Some of the displays and descriptions too. It is less extreme in view now.
the woman there likely thought little of your nationality - the weight on your shoulders clearly was not on hers. i’ve been in those situations myself. i’ve been through the guilt and released myself from it. you learn a hell of a lot, including the fact that such guilt isn’t just a white, western thing.
This post encapsulates the inherent kindness and forgiveness of Chinese people. "You're a friend - okay then, the past doesn't matter.". It reminds me of a conversation I had with a taxidriver in Tianjin. At the time, there was a lot of foreign investment coming into the town. Tianjin was a city that suffered terribly during the Eight Allied Powers invasion of China. I'd also recently seen the horrors of the Memorial Hall to the Victims of the Nanjing Massacre, so this atrocity was front and centre in my recall. I asked the taxi driver how he felt about all the business investment and all of these nations who had caused so much destruction, terrror and murder in Tianjin during that time coming back to Tianjin. He smiled and replied simply "It they come in peace that's fine, we people of Tianjin welcome them.".
The taxi driver had the same response as your temple woman - you're a friend - great, welcome!
It's kind of relevant to the current state of the world. China is simply saying - you want to be friends, you want to do business with us, Welcome! but if you want to engage in wars, trade or military, we will fight back. We'd rather be friends, but your choice.
That resonates with many of my encounters in China, there’s a deep-seated graciousness, a capacity to separate the individual from the historical.
I find it deeply humbling. In an age where history is so often weaponised, there’s something quietly radical about the simple act of saying: “You come in peace? Then welcome.”
It reminds me that the truest way to build bridges across nations and ideologies is to actually meet — to talk, to sit together, to share a meal or a story. We live in increasingly polarised and suspicious times, but there’s still light in human connection.
Do you mind if i copy and re-stack that? " a deep seated graciousness". that describes it exactly.🙏 (asking first as it's a comment, not a post)
Absolutely!
I learn a lot from your essays - thank you
Thanks so much - I really appreciate you reading! 😊